<1. 'Which is best for a safari: Southern or East Africa?'>
In my humble opinion three of the four most impressive sights in sub-Saharan Africa are in southern Africa, namely Table Bay & Mountain in South Africa's Cape Town, the dunes at Sossusvlei in Namibia and Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. The fourth one? Kilimanjaro, in Tanzania.
Generally speaking and at the risk of over-simplifying, I'd venture that Eastern Africa is 'wilder' and has more abundant game that can be seen in greater concentrations, such as seasonally in the Masai Mara & Serengeti Plains. Southern Africa has just as much going for it in wild-life terms, though: huge numbers of elephant, plenty of 'rhino and greater variety. On a recent visit (Oct '95) we saw 45 species of mammals just in South Africa.
<2. Are Kenya and Tanzania over-commercialised? They certainly appear to be
from some materials, but are they still the best place for game viewing and
cultural experiences.>
Some game parks in Kenya are environmentally damaged due to years of indiscriminate off-road pursuit of big game. Too many mini-buses chasing too few animals is not an uncommon occurrence in east Africa. Persons more knowledgeable than I am about East Africa, are advising would-be safari-goers to go to Southern Africa, rather than East Africa, to avoid the crowds.
Even so, there is no doubt that areas such as Kenya's Masai Mara National Reserve and Tanzania's Serengeti Plains and Ngorongoro Crater offer a spectacular wildlife-viewing experience, especially if a visit can be timed to witness the annual wildebeest migration. Compared with the great southern African game parks, the Mara has a greater abundance of animals and the wide open plains make game-viewing more rewarding.
<3. How do Zimbabwe, Botswana, Zambia and South Africa compare for game
viewing?>
You could go on safari to any of these countries - or Namibia, for that matter - and see enough game to last you a life-time. The trick is in selecting the right venues, time & operator. You're asking the right questions, so let's see...
ZIMBABWE has taken a bit of a knock over the last few years because of recurring drought. Also, I have seen some reports in Getaway Magazine (a reliable South African outdoor adventure publication) of mis-management in game parks such as Hwange. On the other hand, game-viewing in Hwange - and other Zim parks - is generally excellent in late winter to early spring (July through October), and you should see between 25 and 35 different species of mammal, not counting bats & small rodents. You simply can't beat Hwange for elephant, at the right time of the year. Zimbabwe also has many small safari camps which offer a high quality, personalised service. And it has Victoria Falls. Prices in Zimbabwe are quite high: one should work on a budget of about $200 per day (and up) for land arrangements for a small-group, first-class guided tour. Of course, you could do it for less on your own.
BOTSWANA is the place to go if you don't have to pinch every penny. The Okavango Delta rates very high in my personal "Travel Hall of Fame". But it is expensive when done the right way, which, in my humble opinion, is to fly in from Maun or Kasane and stay in a first-class lodge. However, a couple of days at a water camp and two more at a good game-viewing camp in the Moremi Game Reserve should suffice: go on to Zimbabwe or Namibia from there. The Moremi, by the way, is rated as one of the top two eco-destinations in the world by the editors of the authoritative Weissman Travel Reports. Here's what they say: "What makes this park so spectacular is that it features an arkfull of big game--lions, leopards, hyenas, giraffes, elephants--as well as a dramatic array of bird-life. The reserve encompasses the ecologically unique Okavango Delta, so visitors can go on a game drive in the morning, then, in the afternoon, glide along narrow, papyrus-lined streams to watch eagles, herons, storks, egrets and cranes soar overhead."
A good idea is to combine Victoria Falls, Chobe Game Reserve and the Okavango Delta/Moremi. If you're on a budget, consider an overland participation safari from Maun, Botswana to the Victoria Falls. On request, I'll e-mail a fascinating first-hand account of such a journey.
SOUTH AFRICA is without doubt the best place for rhino - both black and white. At the rate these animals are disappearing elsewhere on the continent, my advice would be to go and see them first! In terms of value for money I don't think you can beat Kwazulu-Natal's Hluhluwe/Umfolozi or Itala Game Reserves. Combine this with a few days at a secluded lodge on the Indian Ocean for some first-class snorkelling or fishing and you've got yourself much more than just another safari. Several affordable game lodges in the Eastern Transvaal lowveld, adjacent to Kruger National Park, offers full board and activities for about $150 per day. Game-viewing in South Africa offers more in the line of variety than in quantity. On my last trip to South Africa (Oct/Nov 1995) my group saw no less than 45 mammals, including some rarely seen species such as Cape Clawless Otter, Bat-eared Fox, Aardvark and Striped Polecat. But we never did see huge herds of game so don't bargain on the latter. South Africa has a lot more going for it than just wild-life, though: you simply have to spend at least a couple of days in Cape Town, which is one of the world's great travel cities, like San Francisco or Paris.
ZAMBIA is generally quite a bit wilder than other southern African destinations: the Luangwa Valley has terrific game-viewing, not too many other travellers. There is at least one full-service travel agency in Malawi which specialises in the Luangwa. Tongabezi, a charming lodge on the Zambezi about 10km upstream from Victoria Falls, has some of the finest accommodation in all of Africa. Livingstone Island, which belongs to Zambia, arguably has the best view of any in the world. As a travel writer put it, "... only when you have stood on the precipice of ... Livingstone Island and gazed into the deep, raging gorge below, do you realize that you have looked right into the heart of the continent."
NAMIBIA should be added to your list. Almost too good to be true, Namibia is a real head-shaking destination: Sossusvlei, the Skeleton Coast, driving across the Khomas Hochland into the Namib Desert, the vast Etosha Pan and many other places will have you shaking your head in awe and delight. Namibia is definitely my personal favourite because it has the unique combination of excellent game-viewing in Etosha and the true desert experience of the Namib. Namibia has vast areas of true wilderness and it also offers some of the best opportunities in Africa for cultural experiences such as meeting the Himba people.
<4. Is Victoria Falls an absolute must or do the crowds and rumoured 18 hole
golf course make it too tacky?>
Vic Falls is to southern Africa what the Grand Canyon is to the United States: a definitive travel destination. Some people in the business actually go as far as saying that if you haven't see the Falls, you haven't really seen southern Africa... The area immediately surrounding the Falls has so far been spared from development. For sheer spectacle, nothing can touch the Falls at peak flood in April or May. Nice weather at that time of the year, too. The white-water rafting experience in the Zambezi down from Victoria Falls is awesome: true Class 5 rapids. Not for the faint at heart! The best current information on the Victoria Falls is contained in an in-depth three-part article in the Sept/Oct/Nov '95 issues of Getaway Magazine.
<5. How long does game viewing stay interesting? Should we select a tour that
mixes cultural experiences and game-viewing or stick with game-viewing only?
(We are thinking of a trip of about 15 days)>
Game-viewing can get old pretty quickly if you stay in the same habitat too long, which translates into seeing pretty much the same vegetation, animals, birds, etc. The key is habitat diversity: look for an itinerary which has a mix of three or four major habitat types such as wetlands, highveld savannah (open grassland dotted with trees), acacia or thornveld savannah (aka bushveld) and riverine bush. By all means select a tour which will look at all aspects of the natural history of an area, not just game.
<6. Is it advisable to go with a tour group or can I do it myself?>
It all depends. For a first visit to Africa - unless you're young, adventurous & travelling in a group - my advice would be to go on a small group safari. You really have three main options:
a) Join a small-group safari (scheduled departure).
These safaris, which range from luxury fly-in trips to more basic, 'participation' safaris, are for people who enjoy the camaraderie of traveling with a few other people and who enjoy having a professional guide on hand at all times. I highly recommend them for first-time visitors to Southern Africa. Sharing the experience often makes it much more rewarding & having a guide to identify birds, trees & mammals can make all the difference. Just don't go with too big a group.
b) Go on your own fly-in safari
For the independently-minded, savvy traveler, this is the way to go. You decide - in consultation with your travel agent - how long you want to stay in particular areas & lodges and choose the activities you like, whether it's game-viewing, snorkelling, fishing or bird-watching, or all of these. You still meet up with interesting people at the various lodges, and go on game-drives, etc. with knowledgeable, local guides. The main difference - compared with a small-group tour - is that you're on your own most of the time & you spend less time driving. I guess the only real down-side is that this type of safari is not quite as educational as a small-group tour and it is generally somewhat more expensive.
c) Go on a self-drive safari
For the more cost-conscious traveler, perhaps on a second trip to Africa, I'd recommend a self-drive safari in South Africa, Namibia or Zimbabwe. These three countries (and especially South Africa) have an excellent road, rail & air network, which makes it easy to get around quickly and safely, without having to resort to 4-wheel drive vehicles. Just plan your trip carefully & book well in advance, especially for the July & December holidays.
<7. What do I look for in selecting an operator?>
I'd suggest that if you get a _NO_ answer on any of the following three questions, you should think twice before dealing with a particular operator or his/her local agent:
* Is the departure _guaranteed_? There is nothing as frustrating as booking for a trip, spending months in keen anticipation only to be given back your deposit with a lame excuse that the tour was not fully supported or whatever. It happens, so make sure.
* Does the company legally _operate an office_ within the country where the tour is going to take place and does it own the vehicles & equipment and employ the guides? It is essential to go with a group which has in-country back-up, IN CASE THINGS GO WRONG. I cannot adequately stress this point: having a broken down vehicle replaced or an ill guide substituted by someone equally capable - or not - can make either of these a minor inconvenience or a major disaster.
In October 1994, I was escorting a group when our vehicle broke down in Zululand, South Africa, in pouring rain. One telephone call to Wilderness Safaris' head office in Johannesburg did the trick: two and a half hours later we had a brand new replacement vehicle. And while we were waiting, Brian Kramer, the owner of Mine Own Country Estate at Gingindlovu - our destination on that day - came to collect the participants and whisked them off to his cozy lounge for a glass of sherry. He had been alerted to our plight by a quick-thinking Wilderness employee.
* Will there be _8 or less persons_ in the group ? As an avid bird-watcher, I am perhaps over-sensitive about this, but believe me, "nature tour" with more than 8 or so people becomes an oxymoron. More like "survival of the fittest" in terms of space in the vehicle, positioning for photographs, enjoying nature peacefully and quietly and so on.
<8. Who are the best operators? Who are the best guides?>
I have only been on trips with Wilderness Safaris (head office in Jo'burg where they operate a full-service travel agency, with affiliates in Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Malawi) and rate them highly. I have no first-hand experience of other operators but Abercrombie & Kent, Mountain Travel/Sobek and Overseas Adventure Travel have good track records.
The best tours are the ones led by all-round naturalists: people who can talk entertainingly about almost everything around them. Peter Ginn, who leads bird & nature tours in Zimbabwe, is such a person. A geologist by training and African by birth, Peter makes sure that a walk through the bush with him is not just about birds. It is also about rocks, trees, wildflowers, conservation, wild-life, weather patterns, African history, agricultural practices and much more. Peter is a long-time teacher and has the born-teacher's ability to impart his enthusiasm - along with his wisdom - to his students. He is also a world-class photographer (Associate of the Royal Photographic Society). Find the Peter Ginn of the area you'd like to go to and you're in business!
<9. How safe are safari flights? Should we plan on them or avoid them?>
Safari flights in the Okavango Delta are probably as safe as similar light aircraft operations most anywhere in the world: much safer than ground transportation but not as safe as commercial jet aircraft. The aircraft are generally well-maintained and - just like in the USA - completely overhauled after a pre-determined number of hours. You'll find that the so-called "bush pilots" are, like the vast majority of their colleagues all over the world, very concerned about safety, that they follow correct procedures and that they will not operate an unserviceable aircraft. After all, their lives are at stake, too.
If you can afford it, I'd definitely recommend choosing an itinerary that includes charter flights - for example - into the heart of the Okavango Delta. Flying serves a three-fold purpose: it gets you to the prime game-viewing/birding or whatever areas without wasting time on bad roads; you'll be able to cover much more ground so your itinerary can be more diversified and you will gain an overall perspective of the area that is only possible from the air. It would not be possible, for example, to fully appreciate the complexity of the Okavango Delta's channel systems and vast number of islands without an aerial view. BTW, many Delta pilots are expert guides in their own right. You'll be amazed at their ability to spot and identify animals from the air!
<10. What are things to watch for as far as price is concerned? Where do you
get ripped off?>
The most important thing is to make sure that all the essential things associated with the trip are included in the quoted price: ground transportation, accommodation, meals, excursions, guide/driver service and transfers. Don't fall for the oldest trick in the book: a ridiculously low up-front quote for a bare-bones trip which is not what you want and not what you end up paying for.
<11. Any other tips>
Ask for references from previous clients; ask for any published trip diary or magazine article about a specific area or tour; find out how comprehensive the pre-tour advice (suggested reading list, what to take info etc.) will be.
